Murder in Shaughnessy Heights

In honour of Halloween I’ll be running different house murder and ghosts stories this month from my book At Home with History.

When police found the body of Marion Hamilton, 68, in her Nanton Street home in 1975, they assumed it was death by natural causes. The widow suffered from dementia and lived in the rambling old house since the death of her elderly mother nine months before.

Marion had two guardians, both cousins, appointed to look after her. Olga Young had wanted to put her into a nursing home where she would receive around the clock attention; but Elouise Roads Wilson, Marion’s co-guardian told Young that she didn’t want the estate to be “depleted” by the cost of private care. So Wilson left her law practice in Victoria and moved in to the Nanton Street house to take care of her cousin.

Police came to the house after Wilson called to report Marion’s death. They found Marion lying behind the door of the room where she slept. There was no forced entry and nothing stolen.

George Shoebotham examined the body at the city morgue and found ligature marks around her neck. Either someone had strangled her, or she’d hanged herself with a thin cord or wire.

Police found a length of nylon string under a chair in the room. After discovering that Wilson was the sole beneficiary of Marion’s estate, police thought she’d got tired of waiting and charged her with murder.

The story got decidedly creepier. It turned out that Eunice Coote, Marion’s 93-year-old mother had died in the same house several months before. Apparently, she was dead for two weeks, lying in the same bed and decomposing, all the while Marion was trying to feed and care for her. Wilson’s defence lawyer argued that Marion may have killed her mother and later killed herself by looping the twine around her neck and tying the end of the handle of her bedroom door. But when the coroner exhumed Coote’s body, they found she had died from a heart condition.

Wilson, 47, told the jury that she became co-guardian after the death of Marion’s mother the previous March. She said she was the sole beneficiary to her $175,000 estate. Wilson told the jury that Marion had told her she wanted to join her dead mother. She said she often locked her cousin in her room to stop her wandering around the streets at night. On the night she died, she told the court that she and her husband Philip put Marion to bed around 7:00 p.m. and Philip took the bus to Victoria where he worked.

It seemed odd that a well respected lawyer would risk murdering her cousin for a relatively small inheritance. But then, it seemed even odder that she would leave her practice, her home, and her husband to take care of an aging relative. The police were also surprised that she didn’t break a window to cover up the murder as a botched robbery or that she left the string—the murder weapon—in the room.

Wilson’s defence at one point tried to implicate Wilson’s husband, arguing that strangulation was more of a male act; but the jury didn’t buy it, and found her guilty of second-degree murder.

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Murder in James Bay

The murder shocked Victoria

Cecelia Pupkowski is taken from her James Bay house

A few years after the Bests’ bought their Clarence Street home, a young woman knocked on the door and asked if she could come and take a look inside. She told them that her grandparents had lived in the cottage in the 1950s and she’d grown up believing that they were killed in a car crash. It was only recently, she told Paul Best, that she discovered that her grandfather Czeslaw (Chester) Pupkowski had died in a mental hospital for the criminally insane, more than 40 years after stabbing and bludgeoning her grandmother to death in their kitchen.

“We had a bad feeling from the guy we bought the house from, but we could never put our finger on it,” says Best. “My wife had a gut feeling that this house needed to be cleaned, so we did a sage brush burning to give it some good energy and then 10 years later we found out about the murder.”

Best says his house was built in 1906. It first appears in the street directories in 1910 owned by Philip Harrison, a grocer. Harrison lived there for the next decade then a series of people—accountants, clerks, waiters and railway workers—lived there during the 1930s and ‘40s.

The Pupkowski’s bought the yellow and brown house in 1955. They had a son, Milo, 8, who attended South Park Elementary and a boarder, 80-year-old Robina McGirr.

The couple met in a Nazi concentration camp in Poland and came to Canada via Germany. People saw them as a quiet and unassuming part of the Victoria Polish community. Chester, 48, was short with blonde hair and glasses. He spoke little English, was a butcher by trade, but no longer worked and was often seen puttering around in the garden.

Cecelia was friendly and always working. When she wasn’t in the kitchen at the Empress Hotel she cleaned houses to pay the mortgage and support the family.

The week before the murder, Chester collapsed on the street and was rushed to St. Joseph’s Hospital. He was discharged after seeing a psychiatrist who described him as being in a “nervous state.”

Chester and Cecelia Pupkowski in happier times

On Saturday March 24, 1956 Cecelia had just returned from working a split shift at the Empress Hotel. She was expected back at 5:30 p.m. Milo was playing at a friend’s house and Robina was taking a walk in Beacon Hill Park.

At 2:45 p.m. George Warwick was standing outside his home when he heard a woman`s scream coming from the Pupkowski house. Warwick rushed inside and called police. When he came outside he saw Chester covered in blood, half walking, half running towards Holland Point. Shocked onlookers watched as Chester waded up to his neck in the freezing ocean and started beating his head against a floating log.

Police arrived and dragged Chester from the water as he pleaded with them: “Shoot me, shoot me, I want to die.”

At the same time, a second squad found Cecelia’s body sprawled on the kitchen floor, her throat slashed and her head battered in.

Chester never stood trial. He was sent to Essondale (Riverview Hospital) where he stayed until his death.

Milo was placed in a foster home and likely had his name changed to distance himself from the tragedy. Evidently, he grew up, married and had a least one child.

“She only came the once,” says Best of the Pupkowski’s granddaughter. “We never saw her again.”

 

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Vancouver Fire Fighter’s Hall of Flame Calendar

$20

2012 Vancouver Fire Fighter's Calendar

The 2012 Greater Vancouver Fire Fighters Hall of Flame Calendar officially launched on September 8 at Chill Winston’s, a restaurant in a heritage building in Vancouver’s Gastown. Since it’s the Calendar’s 25th anniversary, and because the front page and several of the fire fighters were shot at Firehall No. 6 in Vancouver’s West End, there’s a lot of nice history attached to this year’s fundraiser.

You can pick up a calendar for $20 at London Drugs stores or online through the fire fighter’s charitable website.  All proceeds go to the kids through a slew of different charities so you can buy it with a clear conscience.

Curve Communications managed the project, Jordan Junck shot the fabulous black and white photography, Lydia Avsec did the layout, and I wrote the bios.

I haven’t been to Chill Winston’s before and turns out the building that houses it dates back to 1899. The building is known as the Dunn Block, named after its original owner Thomas Dunn, a city councillor on the first Vancouver City Council. It sits on the site of the temporary city hall set-up after the great fire of 1886. Dunn built it as a hardware and ship chandlery warehouse and there’s a lot more information about the building at Historic Places and a biography of Dunn at BuildingVancouver.

At the intersection of Alexander, Carrall, Water and Powell Streets, Gastown

Launch party for 2012 Vancouver Fire Fighter's Calendar

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Valley Estates headed for heritage digs

277 East 8th Street, North Vancouver

The two-storey Commercial Block at East 8th and St. Andrews in North Vancouver is getting a makeover. New owner Brad Hodson plans to return it to 1912 with a large coat of Strathcona red paint trimmed with Victorian peridot and Edwardian buff accents.

For the past four years Brad has driven by 277 East 8th  on the way to his wine making business at 2nd and Lonsdale. One day he noticed a For Sale sign. He took possession in June.

“Six months later I’m broke and own a big blue building,”  he says.

Brad paid $840,000 for the building and figures with a lot of work and another $150,000 he’ll have Valley Estates up and running in there by Christmas.

The building was designed and built by John Dierssen, Jr. a contractor who also built the 1911 Colonial Apartments a few blocks away. According to the street directories, Dierssen only kept the building for a year or two, and by 1921 it was the St. Andrews Grocery Store. Fred J. Keates, another grocer bought it some time in the 1920s and by the 1930s, it was JB Wilson Meats, a butcher’s shop and home.

It’s a sturdy building carved out of the rain forest a century ago. The roofline is unusual, as are the Edwardian elements and four corner turrets which cap two quite lovely spacious apartments with large bay windows and stellar views of Vancouver.

“I always thought I’d like to restore a house and I’ve always had this thing about turrets—now I own a building with four of them.”

Brad’s been working on the building for months. When he stripped off the aluminum cladding at the front, he uncovered the original pediment. At some point workers had ripped off the structure leaving just the paint mark. He can’t find any old photos, but he’s working to come up with a replica of the original pediment.

As part of his deal with the City of North Vancouver, Brad had to take out a heritage designation on the building. And, while that opens up some opportunities for funding and grants, it also puts him at the mercy of the City and its crazy timetable.

“I know a lot about heritage and I’m very motivated to bring it back to what I think it would have been like in 1912,”  he says. “Part of my whole plan is to restore it, put my business in it to save a whole bunch of money, make it film friendly and rent it out to film companies.”

When he’s finished there will be large windows along St. Andrews, a refinished original fir floor, and an open concept production area with bottling stations.

If you’re wondering why the building was painted that car-stopping shade of blue, the story Brad heard was that an Asian family who lived there in the ‘70s decided it was a way to thumb their nose at City Hall. Brad plans to strip the marine paint off with a chemical peel in the spring.

Canada’s Historic Places has technical information on the building and you can follow Brad’s progress at his blog. We would both love to hear of any stories or see photos associated with the building over the last century.

277 East 8th Street, North Vancouver

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Sylvia Holland (1900-1974)

I had a really interesting chat with Theo Halladay recently. Theo is 83 and living in the house her mother designed in the San Fernando Valley near Los Angeles. Theo was born in Victoria, and I’m quite fascinated with her mother Sylvia Moberly Holland, the first registered woman architect in British Columbia.

Sylvia met Frank Holland at the Architectural Association School in London. Soon after graduation, they married and moved to Frank’s home town in Victoria where they designed an arts and crafts house at 1170 Tattersall Drive in Saanich.

Arts and Crafts House designed by Sylvia and Frank Holland

1170 Tattersall Drive, Victoria

In 1928, two years after moving into their house, Frank died leaving Sylvia, 28, to raise Theo, not yet two, and her brother Boris, born a month after his father’s death.

Being taken seriously as a female architect would be challenging at any time, but with two young children to support and on the eve of the Great Depression, it was devastating.

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The Coach House

When I was mapping out a walking tour of James Bay for a book on Victoria not too long ago, I came across the Coach House, an early carriage-style residence tucked away at the point where Marifield Avenue runs into St. Andrews Street. It’s built on land that was once owned by Emily Carr’s father Richard, and a stone’s throw from Carr House on Government Street where Emily was born, her own house and the subject of her book “the House of All Sorts,” and the two houses owned by her sisters. I couldn’t find any mention of the house in any of the heritage inventory books, so decided to do a bit of research of my own.

The Coach House in the 1970s

Current owners Jackie and Martin Somers named it the Coach House and Jackie says that she’d always thought of it as belonging to a coachman because the story went that it was used as the coach house for a mansion on Douglas Street—in those days Douglas was called Katherine Street. As Jackie notes, what you see from St Andrews Street was originally the back of the house. The front has a pretty Tudor-style trim, which is now hidden by an ugly parkade. When the house was built pre-1900, Marifield Avenue didn’t exist—it would have been the driveway to Bishop Cridge’s house of the same name.

The Coach House first appears in the street directories in 1897 as the servant’s quarters for Castlewood, a mansion owned by William G. Bowman, proprietor of the Metropolitan Livery Stables on Yates Street. Bowman sold the mansion to Lt. Col. John A. Hall, a director of the Victoria Chemical Company in 1903 and in 1911 it was owned by Stephen Jones who also built and owned the Dominion Hotel (1876) at Yates and Blanchard. Jones lived in the house until 1940 where it looks like it was torn down to make room for the Bickerton Court high rise apartment building.

William Maddock, was a gardener and handyman for all three owners of Castlewood. He and his wife Lillian lived in the little house from at least 1897 to 1915—the last year the directory shows a separate listing.

The Somers’ bought the property from John Wilcox in 1974. John, who sent me the photo, had bought the house as a newlywed, and while doing work on it found several old Chinese coins buried in the dirt under the front steps. “On one occasion my wife and I heard what sounded like footsteps on the stairs leading to the top floor when we duplexed part of the home,” he says. “There was definitely no one else at home when we heard those sounds.”

The spirits had left by the time the Somers moved in. Jackie says when they renovated the house in the ‘70s they uncovered the original coach house doors in the wall that now faces Douglas.

I can’t find any pictures or a building date for Castlewood which changed addresses several times over the years. The mansion would have sat next to the notorious Colonist Hotel on the corner of Simcoe and Douglas and survived at least until 1940. If anyone has any information I’d love to hear about it.

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What is a Heritage Register?

The District of North Vancouver has two heritage inventories—Modern Architecture (1930-1965) published in 1997, and one with houses that date prior to 1930 published in 1993. Both are hopelessly out of date, many houses no longer exist, and others that should have been included, were not.

And, because neither of the books is online, new home owners looking to renovate, update or rip down are often unpleasantly surprised to be hauled in front of the Heritage Commission because their modest post and beam was designed by Fred Thornton Hollingsworth, Arthur Erickson or Ron Thom.

Built in 1911 by Thomas E. Christie

Christie House, 267 West Queens Road, North Vancouver

Several years ago the District hired heritage expert Donald Luxton to update the heritage inventory in preparation for a heritage register.  He recommended that of the 354 sites in the inventory, 152 should be on the register. It’s something the Heritage Commission has been trying to get into public record for the more than three years I’ve been a member, and it finally went  before  Council at the end of January.

The first question Mayor  Walton asked was why it’s taken so long.

Why indeed. There are tons of benefits for homeowners and it gives district staff some teeth when it comes to saving our heritage. It’s hard to see a downside.

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Malcolm Lowry—(1909-1957)

Malcolm and Margerie Lowry lived here from 1940 to 1954

Margerie Lowry at their shack at Cates Park

 

Malcolm Lowry was an incredibly talented, paranoid alcoholic who drank his way through the creation of more than a dozen novels and works of poetry. Born in England, and dead for more than half a century now, the writer left an indelible footprint in Vancouver. Today would have been his birthday.

 


Under the Volcano

Deep Cove Heritage Society

Malcolm Lowry with galley proof of Under the Volcano

Lowry lived in Vancouver for more than 15 years. He had a variety of addresses on Vancouver’s West Side and in the West End, but most of his time was spent near Deep Cove in North Vancouver. It was here that he supposedly spent the happiest and most productive time of his short life and completed Under the Volcano, the most famous of his books.

The beach at Cates Park


 

The manuscript was rejected 13 times, nearly lost in a fire, and eventually published in 1947. Jacqueline Bisset starred in the 1984 movie of the same name, and Albert Finney won an Oscar nomination for best actor in a leading role.

The guy had a truly brilliant way with words, much like Hemingway; I’m just not much of a fan of either of their books. I found Under the Volcano, a semi auto-biographical novel about the personal struggle of an alcoholic ex British consul living in small town Mexico, a tough slog. But, the book did pick up the Governor General’s award and is still considered one of the best English-language novels of the 20th century—placing at number 11—by Modern Library—so that alone makes him extremely interesting.

And, because today is his birthday, it seemed like a fitting tribute to visit the site of his former digs at Cates Park where he lived with second wife Margerie between 1940 and 1954.

The Shack at Cates Park

In the tough years of the ‘30s, what’s now known as Cates Park was home to a bunch of squatter’s shacks, that at one time, housed the Dollar Mill workers and others devastated by the Depression.

After a visit to the Deep Cove Heritage Society, I know that the Lowry’s rented the shack from a group of Scotsmen, who used it for fishing. By the time the Lowry’s moved there in 1940 the shacks were mainly used as summer holiday cabins.

The Lowry’s paid $15 a month in the summer, $7.50 in the winter. In 1941 they bought another of the shacks, painted the door red and the window frames yellow. It burned down in 1944 taking a bunch of Lowry’s unfinished manuscripts with it, and they re-rented their original shack and started to rebuild. The third shack, was, according to friend and frequent visitor Earle Birney, without plumbing and electricity, but was “a 20 square-foot dwelling” with two rooms heated by a wood stove and an outhouse.

Now dedicated to Malcolm Lowry

Cates Park, North Vancouver

The shacks are long gone, but there’s a “Malcolm Lowry Walk” sign at the beginning of the waterfront trail and a plaque not far away that gives a bit of the history. You can see the same view that Lowry looked out on more than half a century ago—the Burnaby oil refinery that he hated, has been there since 1932.

 

 

It’s an easy walk along the trails and down to the beach these days, but when the Lowry’s lived there they had to walk down a narrow path surrounded by a thick, evergreen forest full of wildlife.

Lowry completed Under the Volcano here in 1944

Cates Park, North Vancouver

The Lowry’s were eventually evicted from their shack in 1954 and returned to England. Lowry died there on June 27, 1957 from a combination of gin, barbiturates and inhalation of stomach contents. The coroner called it “death by misadventure.”

The shack was bulldozed that same year.

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The End of the Line

It’s The End of the Line’s fifth anniversary this month and if you have no idea what I’m talking about, it’s time to visit this heritage general store in upper Lynn Valley, North Vancouver.

Owned by Connie Fay

The End of the Line General Store

Connie Fay owns the store and tells me that technically it’s the site that’s heritage, not the store, but the building dates back to the late ‘30s or early ‘40s and is still old by Vancouver standards.

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Commodore Ballroom voted 8th most influential club in North America

The Commodore Ballroom opened in 1930

View of 800 Granville Street and the Commodore Ballroom in 1967

Billboard Magazine hit the streets last week naming our Commodore Ballroom one of North America’s 10 most influential clubs, right up there with New York’s Bowery Ballroom and the Fillmore in San Francisco. According to Billboard, the Commodore scored a spot on the list because it’s well-branded with great sightlines and amazing sound. “Plus that certain intangible something that just equals cool.”

 

Photo by Stuart Thomson for Star Newspaper

The dance floor of the Commodore Ballroom, December 1930

 

As well as hosting a bunch of legendary performers such as Bryan Adams, The Guess Who, U2 and the Police, the club has a fascinating history.

Built by Rum Runners in 1929

The Reifel family, probably best known today for the Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary, brewed the family fortune and built the cabaret during US Prohibition.

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